Coassement de la
Grenouille
Journal of the Milice de Ste. Famille
Volume
15, No. 3, May 2003
As I sit here,
pen(?) in hand, I hear thunder rumbling in the distance. Looks like I won’t be able to mow the grass
today. OH DARN!!!
Many thanks to
all who took part in Frog Talk (our 16th). Especially Lyle Cubberly and Tom Connor. They graciously stepped in when I was unable
to continue as chairman. Attendance was
down this year, unless you count the 1400 Boy Scouts. Who, by the way, were very well behaved. Those who were there had a great time. And the weather was wonderful. Lower attendance, of course, means lower
income from the auction. But we are
still in the black.
Ken Brigman
told us about engineering. We surveyed
and laid out an arpent to show how wide your field would be.
Lon Brauer
discussed 18th century
art. Then he turned the priest’s
quarters into a camera obscura. That
was amazing.
Libby Coffey
told us about women in the New France.
Gary Fiedler discussed powder horn engraving.
Ned Jenkins
from Fort Toulouse presented a fine illustrated talk on the archeology of the
fort in central Alabama.
Back at the
fort the Duffys provided musical entertainment.
I am sorry so
few were able to attend. You missed a
fine event.
The Lewis and Clark
Bicentennial is fast approaching. A lot
of our members, including myself, are time traveling to 1804. If you have not made it to the museum in
Harford, Illinois, do try. It is very
well put together.
There is a
weekend between Memorial Day and set-up for June Fort. So that will put off the Saturday land
rush. If you are not doing Rev War at
Vincennes, come down to Fort Massac for a great F&I event. You can also see how the fort is coming
along.
I think I have
run out of things to say. I am looking
forward to seeing everyone at June Fort.
Votre
Serviteur
Jean Baptiste
Tavernier
I received the
following letter from Fort Necessity National NB
“The second
painting is completed.
The second
paint, “The Approaching Storm”, depicts the French and Indians dividing their
forces at the western end of the Great Meadows. The painting was installed in the Fort Necessity Visitor Center
one month ago and it looks great. Now
the real battle is over whether the second should be reproduced for sale. I am pushing for copies to be made, but some
of the staff is happy with just selling the first print. I will keep working on this, and if anything
changes toward the positive, I will let you know. Takce care.
Sincerely
Brian S. Reedy
Park Ranger –
Fort Necessity NB”
For those who
attended The Grand Encampment and stopped at Fort Necessity and purchased the
first print, this would be a great companion piece. Brian can be reached at: Brian_Reedy@nps.gov
John
We
were standing at attention at morning colors after 48 hours of rain. An Indian was doing some kind of chant. Tom Connor leaned over and whispered in my
ear “Oh great – Just what we need – another rain dance”
Jim
C.
“…dressed himself in the habit of a voyageur… a
red woolen cap…”
by
Karl A. Koster
For
the average person the image of a voyageur wouldn’t be complete without his
tasseled pointed cap. Well, it’s about
time we jump into the truths about this famous headwear. The actual word “toque” or “tuque” is truly
Canadian. Old French dictionaries do not contain the word, nor does the origin of the word seem to
be present in France. Like hockey,
Celine Dion and butter tarts, this too is strictly Canadian.
Tuques, toques, nightcaps, mill’d caps, worsted caps,
knitted caps . . .confused? Welcome to
the club. Journal entries support this
confusion by using nearly all the terms listed. Do they all mean the same thing? What was really worn?
These questions will be addressed, but this writer is still not 100%
certain as to the conclusion. This
topic concerning the head has brought about some real “headaches”. Yet, since most people visualize voyageurs
wearing these caps, there must be some truth behind it all.
“All
Canadians speak the same French we do. Except for some typical words,…they have
forged some such as tuque or fourole to name a cap of red wool.”
~Jean–Baptiste
d’Alcyrac, Canada, 1755-60 (Gousse, 35)
“
[do not]…let any militia man come [to church] wearing only a mantelet and
tuque, when they are certain that these people have capots and chapeau [hats]
at home.”
~
Monsieur deNoyan, at the request of a priest, 1756 (Gousse, 47)
“The
Canadian Voyageurs…have a custom of pulling off
their hats…”
~
Daniel Williams Harmon, Lake Huron area, 1800 (Harmon, 17)
“…dressed
himself in the habit of a voyageur, that is, a short shirt, a red woolen cap…”
~
Sherman Hall, 1832 (Nute, 13)
Because the word toque is localized to Canada, folks coming
from other regions often had other names for the cap. Are these names describing the exact same item? Perhaps these varied terms are clues to
identifying the toque? Often it is not
the general design of the toque that is tough to identify but rather the
materials used.
Knitted is the most common description. When the phrase “pulling
off” appears in journals, it causes me to think of a cap that hugs
the head, similar to a modern stocking cap.
The term knitted brings about two ideas: knitted with needles from yarn
or caps cut and sewn of knit material?
We do know making toques was similar to making sashes, in that it was a
basic “cottage industry” for woman around Montreal and Lachine. This causes me to fall in favor of the
needle and yarn method as the most popular, given the supplies at hand. These toques then were sold to private
individuals, fur trade companies for use among engages and as trade items to
the native populace. A Hudson Bay Co.
inventory of 1855 offers the following clue:
“12
caps, 2 cloth…” this might be translated into 10 knitted caps
and 2 of cloth?
“The
red woolen knitted sailor’s cap or tuque was always a favoured headdress for
both summer and winter wear in New France.”
~ Frances Back, (Back, 9-10)
“…[caps]were knitted wool tubes…”
~ Peter Kalm, Canada, 1749 (Gousse, 47)
The Machault, which sunk on July 8th, 1760 in
the Chaleur Bay of the St. Lawrence River, revealed many secrets to divers
during 1969-1972. A glorious amount of
artifacts were discovered. Amazingly,
one of the pieces to survive was an 18th century knitted toque of
woolen yarn, thus preserving and supporting this humble headwear. (Sullivan,
82)
Worsted is basically a “twisted” or “spun” fiber, which is combed
rather than carded. This produces
longer, more parallel fibers, which creates a smoother, more durable
product. Worsted is not only a
construction term, but can also refer to a finished product. This sounds similar to the knitted debate
doesn’t it? This confusion lies in the
fact that yarns can be worsted and fabrics can be produced of worsted
threads. A toque could be cut from a
piece of worsted material and sewn, hence a worsted cap? Or needle knitted with worsted yarn?
“ 6
Worsted Caps”
~
list of goods sent to Arabasca Post of Cuthbert Grant, 1786 (Duckworth, 118)
“
The inhabitants for upwards of a century had been accustomed to manufacture in
their own families…stockings and worsted caps knitted with wires.”
~
George Heriot, Lower Canada, 1792-1816
(Heriot, 100)
Milled, mill’d, or milling were terms used for fulling. Fulling is the process of shrinking and
felting wool together using warmth, friction, and moisture. Similar to what we do with blankets. The milling of caps, socks, and other small
items sometimes involved thumping the cloth back and forth across a sturdy
table for hours at a time.
“
worn by such of the Canadians…a large, red, milled worsted cap.”
~
Alexander Henry (Elder), Lake Huron, 1761 (Henry, 35)
“ 4
mill’d Caps” ~ Cuthbert Grant’s inventory
left at Arabasca, 1786 (Duckworth, 116)
“Adam
got the better of him and took everything from him & put it in his own
Canoe – even a Milled Cap that was full of pd [pounded] Meat went in the Lake – the other Cryed out
for Mercy not to drown him or his Bonnet…”
Willard
Wentzel, Slave Lake, 1802 (Keith, 171)
“Gave
him a Small Capot for his Son, and a milled Cap for himself.”
~Willard
Wentzel, Grand River, 1805 (Keith, 201)
Nightcaps…don’t this just strike images of old men in their
pajamas? The general shape of a
nightcap does indeed resemble the classic image of a toque. Yet, rarely do we visualize them as
knitted? It is interesting to note that
many of those who used the term nightcap in describing caps worn by the
Canadians, were new to Canada themselves.
The sight of a “peaked cap” may have been best described by using a term
they were familiar with...nightcap?
“ 1
doz. Red Night Caps”
~
Peter Pond’s Grand Portage Inventory of July 22nd, 1775 (Pond, 1)
“…the
men, in place of a hat, wear a red or blue nightcap of a thick texture…[they]cannot address each other on the street without
pulling off their caps…”
~
John Duncan describing the “lower order” of Montreal, 1818-1819 (Hanson,C., 2)
“I
have seen 2 of the most distinguished voyageurs. They were dressed in sky blue
capotes, scarlet sashes & high scarlet night caps & moccasins.”
~Letitia Hargrave, York Factory, 1840 (Hargrave, 78)
Quotes, artwork, and a surviving original support the
classic pointed shape of the toque. Two
styles of toques are noted in journal accounts: the single and the double cap. A single toque resembles a simple modern
stocking cap, while the double toque resembles a deflated football with one end
stuffed into the other to form a “double” layer. Depending upon how deep you stuff one end into the other, it is
possible to adjust the “drop” or “bag” of the double toque. The American Fur Company ordered both single
and double toques for their voyageurs.
An easy way to tell knit caps of the 18th and 19th
centuries from those of today is the closure of the top of the toque. An early knitting method, known as “four
needles in the round” would drop stitches to gradually close at the top. Today, most modern toques are cut and sewn
closed towards the top. Remember this
when obtaining a toque for your persona.
“
These toques were single or double night caps: the double night caps were
knitted wool tubes closing gradually towards each end, and then one end of the
knitted tube was stuffed into the other.”
~
Peter Kalm, Canada, 1749 (Gousse, 47)
Now that we’ve accomplished some basic toque knowledge, how
about some fashions tips! We see
extremely little color variety throughout artwork and journal accounts. Peter Kalm in 1748, noted that toques were
scarlet or red in the district of Quebec, blue in Montreal, and generally white
at Three-Rivers. Yet, with what we know
of local women producing these items the look and color must have had
some leeway. In the 1770s Peter Pond
mentions red alone as the color of caps and John Lambert in his 1806-1808 trip
in North America describes caps of the Canadian habitants as “rouge ou
bleu”. Finally, artists John
Crawford Young and Cornelius Krieghoff show a dominance of red caps in their
artwork circa 1825-1863. Those of blue
also appear as a distant second.
“ The men here often wear red
wool toques in private as much as when they travel.”
~Peter
Kalm, Canada, 1749 (Kalm, 415)
“
Amable Chevalier took [Charles} Reaumes red cap…filled it with the hashed
venison.”
~St.
Croix River, Wisconsin, 1790 (Wis. Historical Collection Vol. 3, pg.247)
“
The men were all French Canadian, with long red or blue caps, half of which
hung down the head…”
~
David Thompson, South Branch House, 1786 (Thompson, 40)
The
“…red or blue.” toques described by John Duncan during his
Montreal visit, 1818-1819 (Hanson, C., 2)
In regards to fashion, it must be mentioned that primarily
common folks, which included, but was not limited to engages, wore toques. The distinct fashion statement of the toque
was the “bag” of the cap, which is the leftover portion that hangs from the
head. In which direction should a toque
“bag” and should it “bag” at all? In an
above quote, Letitia Hargrave mentions the
“high” scarlet nightcaps?
This suggests the cap is worn with no or little bag, but atop the head
pointing straight up. This style is
evident in period artwork but quite different from David Thompson’s earlier
quote of being ‘bagged” down the head.
Perhaps, how one wears a toque is as personal and varied with time as
how one decides to tie their historic sash or wear their modern ball cap.
Lastly, tassels on toques appear to be uncommon, although
some artwork does show it. The presence
of a tassel on a double toque seems awkward, as you would be constantly
stuffing it back into the hat.
Brow-folds or turning up the edge of the toque again falls into personal
preference. I have not found this
mentioned in journals, but it appears in some artwork. The wearing of trade silver or other
adornments such as feathers, ribbons, and beads upon the toque severely lacks
support historically in journals and artwork.
It seems knitted toques were more popular in our findings,
but cut cloth and sewn toques may have existed. For one choosing a commoner of Canada, the toque is hard to beat
for headwear. Engages had other options
for headgear such as felted hats and scarves, or perhaps nothing at all. This token piece of clothing though forever
romanticized by the lusty voyageur, is still a very simple, practical item.
Bibliography
Back, Francis, “The Dress
of the First Voyageurs” Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly, 36 #2,
Summer 2000
Delisle, Steve, The
Equipment of New France Militia, Kebeca Liber Ata Company Press, 1999
Dickinson, Phyllis, Personal
Correspondence with weaver/spinner, Jan. 2001
Duckworth, Harold, The
English River Journal, McGill- Queen’s University Press, 1990
Gousse, Suzanne & Andre. Costume
in New France, La Fleur de Lyse, 1998
Hanson, Charles, “John
Duncan’s Comments on Canada” Museum of Fur Trade Quarterly, 26, #4,
Winter 1990
Hanson, James, The
Voyageurs Sketchbook, The Fur Press, 1981
Hargrave, Letitia. The
Letters of Letitia Hargrave, Champlain Society, 1947
Harmon, Danial W. Sixteen
Years in the Indian Country, Macmillon, 1957
Henry, Alexander, Travels
and Adventures in Canada, Hurtig Publish. 1969
Heriot, George, Travels
Through the Canadas, Hurtig Ltd., Edmonton, 1971
Keith, Lloyd, North of
Athabasca, McGill University Press, 2001
Nute, Grace Lee. The
Voyageur, MHS Press, 1955
Pond, Peter, Minnesota
Historical Society Collection: Pond & Greves Papers 1775
Sullivan, Catherine, Legacy
of the Machault, Parks Canada, 1986
Thompson, David, Travels
of David Thompson 1784-1812, Toronto, Champlain Society, Edit. Glover, 1962
Wheeler, Robert, A Toast
To The Fur Trade, Wheeler Productions/M.H.S., 1985
Wisconsin Historical Collection
Vol. 3, Reaume & Chevalier
Upcoming
Events 2003 (* unconfirmed dates
based on last year’s calender)
June
7-8 – Rendezvous – Fort de Chartres
June
7 – Meeting – Capt’s tent – after closing colors
June
14-15 – Muster on the Maumee (timeline event) Fort Meigs
*June
21-22 – Fort Ticonderoga NY
June
27-29 – Discover, Steelville MI
*July
5-6 – Fort Niagara NY
*July
12-13 – Theatiki
Aug
16-17 – Seige 1759 (F&I event) Fort Meigs , Toledo OH
Sept
6 – Meeting 10am, - Cahokia Courthouse
*Sept
6-7 – Fair at New Boston IN
Sept
6-7 – Grande Fete du Chez Les Canses –
Hodge Park MO
Sept
20-21 – Belle Fountaine
Sept
21- Colonial Crafts – Frot de Chartres
*Sept
27-28 – Heritage Days, Godfrey IL
Oct
4-5 – F&I encampment – Fort de Chartres
Oct
4 – Meeting – 4pm – Capt’s tent
*Oct
11-12 – Kampsville
Oct
18-19- 30th Grand encampment – Fort Massac
Oct
18-19 – Gathering of the Eagles, Grafton
*Oct
18-19 – Bullseye
Nov
1-2 – Winter Rendezvous – Fort de Chartres
Nov
1 – Meeting – 4pm – Capt’s tent
Nov
11-13 – Lewis & Clark Bicentennial – Fort Massac
Dec
7 – Christmas meeting - TBA
Dec
31 – La Guiannee – Fort de Chartres
Please
make the following changes on your roster =
Mike
and Precious Piper, 401 Bent Tree Rd., Nobel OK 73068, 405-872-8626, wmpiper@msn.com
Larry
and Kathy Ring – 23220 Regal Drive, Lebanon
MO 65536
Identify
this object 
Do you know what it is?? Answer – next newsletter.
More
French phrases –
Comment
ca va? Koh-moh(n)
sah vah? How’s it going?
Ca
va bien, merci. Sah-va beeyhan,
maerhsee. I’m fine, thanks.
Aller
a la masse Ahlay ah
lah mahss. To go to mass.
Faire
sa toilette Fair sah
twahlette To wash and
get ready
(se)
reveiller (she) ray-vay-ah To wake up
espesces
de tete dure you
hard-headed thing
Word
for the Day – taradiddle /tair-uh-DIH-dul/ noun 1. fib, 2. pretentious nonsense.
Journal
of the Milice de Ste. Famille
1015
Genevieve Pl.
Cahokia
Il 62206-1403